From day one, I have felt it essential to source the most suitable materials for the job, insisting that the hours spent on each product are not let down in some way by the leather I work with. My base in the North of England has served me well, as I can easily source leather from English tanneries, JE Sedgwick and J & FJ Baker, arguably the best producers and finishers of leather in the world.
The vast majority of buckles and hardware used are sand cast at the last remaining foundry of its kind in the UK based in Walsall, England, with a few being sourced from the USA.
Each product is made by the same pair of hands, no work is outsourced and no machines are used, just hand tools and traditional leather craft techniques learned from years of trial and error, practice, refinement and development.
My aim is to make you a belt which will never need to be replaced. I use full grain, Veg Tanned leather for all my belts. Not only will it last for decades, but it will also age beautifully through use and light exposure. Meaning that the belt develops a lovely patina which is unique to the wearer. No two belts will end up being the same.
As important as the type of leather, is the thickness of the leather. Thin leather will look cheap but also stretch and deform before eventually breaking. My belts are made from quality leather which is up to twice the thickness of the average belt. If cared for, they should outlast anyone old enough to be reading this!
Solid Brass or Stainless Steel buckles. Solid, Heavy and ready for years of service. Avoiding the cheap poor quality metals currently flooding the country was a big priority. These will last decades, like the rest of the belt. No weak links.
I use Chicago Screws as an alternative to stitching or riveting the buckle on. These are more expensive, but what you get is the ability to easily remove the buckle and the screws themselves. Allowing you to replace them with a different colour or style to go with a particular outfit, or if you just fancy a change in a few years. Chicago Screws have also been shown to be one of the strongest ways of attaching the buckle.
I can personalise the belt by stamping the wearer’s initials on the inside of the buckle area. This is a completely free of charge option.
I make the belt for you, so will size it for you rather than using shop style generic sizing. I ask you to measure a current belt from the buckle end of the strap, all the way down to the HOLE YOU USE MOST. This hole will be the centre hole on your new belt. Giving you plenty of adjustment each way. If you do not have a belt to measure, pass a tailor’s tape through the belt loops of your trousers, pull to a comfortable position and make a note of this measurement. Please see my size guide for more information.
Many of our belts come in a natural “unfinished” state, meaning that no dyes or grain side finishers have been applied. This is my preference, it’s something I like as it ensures that a beautiful, unique patina develops over time and the belt truly becomes your own.
I offer to oil and wax the natural belts FOC. This will condition and protect the leather but also means the belt will have a slightly darker appearance from the start.